Help for finding good used cars in NJ

[Zeffy]

As of Thursday, I got my first paycheck from my new job. It was only for one weeks of work, however, so the amount was only half of what it would've been for 2 weeks. However, doing some math I plan to be making roughly $1000 per week pay period (bi-weekly), so that's $2000 per month. Ideally, I would like to purchase my own vehicle (FINALLY) before I do anything else with that money.

I'm not sure where the best places are to look for cars that aren't total beaters but aren't too new. I would like to spend possibly around $5K at the maximum, but I'm not sure what kind of cars that money will buy. I also need to purchase them from somewhere in New Jersey - preferably in the central area, and finding used cars that aren't totally shit is really hard here. I would like one with less than say 100K miles on it so that I can use it a decent amount (my commuting to-and-from work is 40-60 minutes depending on traffic) but it's only 24 miles so I shouldn't be putting too many of those on it.

If anyone has any advice where to start looking so that I can plan ahead accordingly, it would be greatly appreciated. 

[SteveG1988]

My aunt and uncle bought their 2010 Camry from the Carsense in Westampton NJ.

Shop away from cities, you will get a lower price.

5K can get you a decent car, you can find a early 2000s Taurus for that money, or a late 90s Camry.

Korean cars don't hold their value but are decent bang for the buck. you can get a mid 2000s Kia or Hyundai for peanuts.

An example of what 5k will get you from Cherry Hill Auto Sales (i've been by the dealer in my car a few times)

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/5094124782.html

A Dealer near me in Lumberton NJ has this

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/5133661494.html

I know i bought a 1996 car for 2,000 bucks and have put that much into it so before you butt in, corco, I wanted a specefic car, and i wanted it with as little rot as possible, knowing that i would have to put work in elsewhere on it.

[02 Park Ave]

As of Thursday, I got my first paycheck from my new job. It was only for one weeks of work, however, so the amount was only half of what it would've been for 2 weeks. However, doing some math I plan to be making roughly $1000 per week, so that's $2000 per month. Ideally, I would like to purchase my own vehicle (FINALLY) before I do anything else with that money.

You had better do some more math.  $1,000 per week does not work out to be $2,000 per month for most months have four weeks in them.

[Zeffy]

As of Thursday, I got my first paycheck from my new job. It was only for one weeks of work, however, so the amount was only half of what it would've been for 2 weeks. However, doing some math I plan to be making roughly $1000 per week, so that's $2000 per month. Ideally, I would like to purchase my own vehicle (FINALLY) before I do anything else with that money.

You had better do some more math.  $1,000 per week does not work out to be $2,000 per month for most months have four weeks in them.

I meant per 2 weeks. Sorry. 

[Roadrunner75]

Check out Consumer Reports - they usually have a guide book available with used car ratings.  Obviously it still depends on how the car was treated (i.e an otherwise good buy Corolla that never had its oil changed).  Used Toyotas, Hondas and some Nissans should generally be at the top of the pack but will cost a little more accordingly.  Steve is right with Hyundais and Kias, but they have to be relatively recent models since quality really came up to speed surpassing many "American" models more recently.  Look for something like a 2000s Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic.  If it was cared for, it will be a great car.

[SteveG1988]

Check out Consumer Reports - they usually have a guide book available with used car ratings.  Obviously it still depends on how the car was treated (i.e an otherwise good buy Corolla that never had its oil changed).  Used Toyotas, Hondas and some Nissans should generally be at the top of the pack but will cost a little more accordingly.  Steve is right with Hyundais and Kias, but they have to be relatively recent models since quality really came up to speed surpassing many "American" models more recently.  Look for something like a 2000s Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic.  If it was cared for, it will be a great car.

Do a carfax check, avoid any car that was used as a fleet vehicle. There are certain models that were only sold into fleet sales.

Chevrolet Classic (several times the model name was used, it is the last body style being sold alongside a new body style of a car for fleet use)

2007 Taurus (only sold for fleets)

If a Crown Victoria lacks a keypad on the driver's door and is 1998 or newer, it is a old cop car.

[NJRoadfan]

Also factor in the cost of insurance on the vehicle. It can vary widely and it will be pretty expensive to start since you have no insurance history. Don't expect your paycheck to be that large for long if you have any work benefits starting in the near future too.

[jakeroot]

Don't be afraid to finance the car, as long as they can get you a good APR. Don't expect anything near zero, as A) it isn't new and B) you're not old enough for them to trust you, but something below 5% is not bad for a first time buyer. Financing might not be a bad idea if you want to develop some good credit (which is very important for us young people, right up there with Roth IRAs, IMO).

But, if you plan on finding your own house (not sure if you live alone or not), it might be a good idea to buy the car outright so you don't have to worry about making payments on two big-ticket items at once for an extended period of time.

Also, make sure your company just isn't working your arse off right now to see how well you do under pressure. Last new job I got kicked my ass for three weeks and then hung me out to dry. My hours went from near 40 every week to 15 or 20. My point being, you're working a lot right now but you might not in a week or two.

[KG909]

Cars.com

[Zeffy]

Also, make sure your company just isn't working your arse off right now to see how well you do under pressure. Last new job I got kicked my ass for three weeks and then hung me out to dry. My hours went from near 40 every week to 15 or 20. My point being, you're working a lot right now but you might not in a week or two.

My offer letter stated my position was 'permanent' (New Jersey is a right-to-work state however) and that my hours were fixed at 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM, Monday through Friday. I doubt they will pull what GameStop did, where I worked my cock off while getting paid minimum wage.

Also factor in the cost of insurance on the vehicle. It can vary widely and it will be pretty expensive to start since you have no insurance history. Don't expect your paycheck to be that large for long if you have any work benefits starting in the near future too.

I have already factored in the benefits when they take effect. I did forget about insurance though, how much is it for say a $4K used car for someone who is 21 years old, male, and hasn't had their own vehicle before?

[NJRoadfan]

My offer letter stated my position was 'permanent' (New Jersey is a right-to-work state however) and that my hours were fixed at 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM, Monday through Friday. I doubt they will pull what GameStop did, where I worked my cock off while getting paid minimum wage.

Offer letters generally are not a contract of employment. The correct term is "at will" employment.

I have already factored in the benefits when they take effect. I did forget about insurance though, how much is it for say a $4K used car for someone who is 21 years old, male, and hasn't had their own vehicle before?

It depends on the car, the garaging location, your credit history (some companies don't check this like CURE), past driving record, etc. Its best to get a quote from insurance companies. Being newly insured in NJ with your own policy, with mandatory coverages (liability, un/underinsured,PIP), I'd estimate around $800-1000 for a 6 month policy, if not more. No I am not kidding, being a new driver isn't cheap.

[SteveG1988]

My offer letter stated my position was 'permanent' (New Jersey is a right-to-work state however) and that my hours were fixed at 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM, Monday through Friday. I doubt they will pull what GameStop did, where I worked my cock off while getting paid minimum wage.

Offer letters generally are not a contract of employment. The correct term is "at will" employment.

I have already factored in the benefits when they take effect. I did forget about insurance though, how much is it for say a $4K used car for someone who is 21 years old, male, and hasn't had their own vehicle before?

It depends on the car, the garaging location, your credit history (some companies don't check this like CURE), past driving record, etc. Its best to get a quote from insurance companies. Being newly insured in NJ with your own policy, with mandatory coverages (liability, un/underinsured,PIP), I'd estimate around $800-1000 for a 6 month policy, if not more. No I am not kidding, being a new driver isn't cheap.

They don't take into consideration the price of the car either, you can get a great deal on a mustang, but they will charge out the nose due to the perceived risk of them having to pay out. That being said i turn 27 in August, and i pay 100/mo for a 1996 thunderbird with a v8. Min coverage. I think a mustang was 130-140/mo for the same year with the same engine.

[Roadrunner75]

Note that if you are financing the car, the bank will probably require you to have comprehensive and collision coverage (as well as liability), which covers your own car (and their collateral).  If you buy the car outright, you would only need to get liability coverage, although depending on the value of the car you may still want to consider C/C coverage.  In my days of driving $400 cars, I only carried liability.  Eventually with a long term good job established, I'd had enough and it was brand new (Toyotas) ever since.  My childhood memories of constantly sitting in Pep Boys waiting rooms with my folks was enough to keep me buying new.

[nexus73]

You are in for a steep and not cheap learning curve Zeffy.  Too bad this isn't 1973, when I took my first paycheck of $200, bought a car (1964 Rambler Classic $100), insurance for 6 months (Farmer's $90), filled the tank with gas (29 cents a gallon for regular) and transferred the title ($2).  Registration was still current so I got a break there.

Rick

[Rothman]

Heh.  Mustangs.

I've seen more than a couple of Mustangs rendered useless in the winter due to their rear-wheel drive.  Had to push one up a slope that my grandmother could have navigated with her walker a winter or two ago, just because it was a little slick (I made it up without trouble in my 2005 Sentra).

[DeaconG]

Try Cars.com, Auto Trader or Kelly Blue Book for a good price estimate.

Finance it through a credit union, which is how I got my first car.  Opened an account with them, three months later took out a signature loan for $300, kept half the money in my account and paid it back two months later, then asked for a $3000 loan for my first financed car (a used 1977 Caprice Classic with 28k miles at the time).

[SteveG1988]

Also, be aware that NJ charges 7% sales tax on all vehicle sales, new and used, paid at time of title transfer (which is 60 bucks) and registration (46.50 or 71.50 depending on weight)

[Duke87]

Note that if you are financing the car, the bank will probably require you to have comprehensive and collision coverage (as well as liability), which covers your own car (and their collateral).  If you buy the car outright, you would only need to get liability coverage, although depending on the value of the car you may still want to consider C/C coverage.

Indeed. A good rule of thumb is if you don't have the cash on hand to pay out of pocket for a replacement should your car get totaled, you want comprehensive coverage. If you do have the cash on hand, forget the comprehensive and just get state minimum (assuming you own your current car outright). It is cheaper to take on that risk yourself if you can afford to do so.

If you share an insurance plan with your parents you will pay less by virtue of pooled risk, so I would recommend that if your parents are willing and won't put any onerous conditions on it.

[Stratuscaster]

What are your requirements for this car?

Automatic or manual?
Is fuel economy a major or minor concern?
2-door coupe? 4-door sedan? Wagon? SUV? Pickup truck?
Any loyalties to a certain brand or brands? Any brand you simply won't consider at all?

I wouldn't be as scared over a fleet vehicle as others might - as long as the regular service and maintenance was done on it.

I bought a '98 Dodge Stratus in 1999 with 24000 miles and it lasted until this past year with 203000 miles on it with just basic maintenance - the biggest repair was a timing belt & head gasket at around 100000 miles. It was a former rental vehicle.

I bought an '02 Dodge Caravan back in 2010 for $994+tax with 397000 miles on it - because the records showed that it was a commercial fleet vehicle and it was under a long-term service contract. It died this year from a thrown rod with 433000 miles on it. For a 13 year old vehicle with almost half a million miles, the body (aside from the hood edge) was solid as was the transmission.

My brother recently picked up a 2001 Chevy Malibu V6 for $200. Put about another $800 into it to fix a coolant leak, fluid changes all around, new brakes all around, and other minor things. He uses it to commute 47 miles one way to work every weekday and it's returning 29-32MPG.

[Zeffy]

What are your requirements for this car?

Automatic or manual?
Is fuel economy a major or minor concern?
2-door coupe? 4-door sedan? Wagon? SUV? Pickup truck?
Any loyalties to a certain brand or brands? Any brand you simply won't consider at all?

1. Automatic, because I cannot drive manual to save a life.
2. Not too big, but I don't want to fill up every other day if I don't have to.
3. 2-door, 4-door preferred, but not opposed to an SUV.
4. I'm brand neutral.

[dfwmapper]

Don't be afraid to finance the car, as long as they can get you a good APR. Don't expect anything near zero, as A) it isn't new and B) you're not old enough for them to trust you, but something below 5% is not bad for a first time buyer. Financing might not be a bad idea if you want to develop some good credit (which is very important for us young people, right up there with Roth IRAs, IMO).

But, if you plan on finding your own house (not sure if you live alone or not), it might be a good idea to buy the car outright so you don't have to worry about making payments on two big-ticket items at once for an extended period of time.

To expand on this, financing is a great idea if you're planning to buy a house in the period between say a year into the car loan and a year after it will be paid off. Non-revolving credit looks really good to lenders and will definitely help your chances of getting a good home loan. But, it usually takes a year before you start to see the benefit, and anything that has been inactive for more than a year doesn't carry much weight, so if you're not buying in that term, pay cash and save money on interest and insurance (either drop comprehensive or at the very least increase your deductible).

[Stratuscaster]

What are your requirements for this car?

Automatic or manual?
Is fuel economy a major or minor concern?
2-door coupe? 4-door sedan? Wagon? SUV? Pickup truck?
Any loyalties to a certain brand or brands? Any brand you simply won't consider at all?

1. Automatic, because I cannot drive manual to save a life.
2. Not too big, but I don't want to fill up every other day if I don't have to.
3. 2-door, 4-door preferred, but not opposed to an SUV.
4. I'm brand neutral.

Preferences with domestic or import?
How old/new does the car need to be?

[yanksfan6129]

Also, be aware that NJ charges 7% sales tax on all vehicle sales, new and used, paid at time of title transfer (which is 60 bucks) and registration (46.50 or 71.50 depending on weight)

Make sure, then, that you tell the seller to make you a receipt that displays a sale price less than what you actually paid so you can save a little cash (applicable if you're paying cash from Some Dude, rather than going to a dealership).

[SteveG1988]

Also, be aware that NJ charges 7% sales tax on all vehicle sales, new and used, paid at time of title transfer (which is 60 bucks) and registration (46.50 or 71.50 depending on weight)

Make sure, then, that you tell the seller to make you a receipt that displays a sale price less than what you actually paid so you can save a little cash (applicable if you're paying cash from Some Dude, rather than going to a dealership).

Just don't try that at a dealership of any size, most will collect the tax right there and put it on the paperwork.

[Zeffy]

Preferences with domestic or import?
How old/new does the car need to be?

I'd prefer domestic, I think, but really as long as it isn't going to kill me I'm fine with either.
In terms of age, I'd prefer anywhere from 1997-2009.